This week I was asked what the best zigzag sewing machine was.

As with most questions, it's not as easy as just spouting out an answer, so here are some guidelines on choosing the best Zigzag machine for you.

Zigzag machines (as opposed to straight stitch machines) come in three styles.
We'll name these categories by their bobbin designations:  Class 15,  Class 15 Front Load, and Drop-In.

Class 15

This style functions very well, due to the the timing being pinned (rather than screwed) in place.
In 27 years I have never had to reset the timing on a Class 15 machine.
In addition, the entire bobbin case moves with the needle as it zigzags, making sure each stitch is consistent.

The difficulty with this style, however, is removing and replacing the bobbin through the small opening.

Unlike the Class 15, the bobbin case is static, meaning that the stitch is more likely to lose timing.

The final decision comes down to how much effort you want to spend replacing the bobbin:

• Class 15s are the most precise, stitch-wise, but are also the most difficult to load.
  
• Class 15 Front Loads and Drop-Ins easier to load, but will also occasionally lose timing during a project.
  

Have any feedback or questions?  Please leave a comment, we'd love to hear from you!

Put a magnet in a plastic bag and slide it around on the floor and around table and chair legs. (Screws love to hide around these places.) You might just find the screw to be replaced into the bobbin case. 

So you've decided what type of needle eye you want. That covers your thread choice, but how about the fabric?

The Point of a needle is very important. This is what pushes--or pierces--the thread through the fabric. Choose the wrong one and you might just ruin your sewing project.

Here's a little run down of needle Points:

Universal needles are made for average projects. The Point is... average. Not too sharp, not too blunt.

 Denim needles have sharper Points in order to pierce through dense and tightly woven fabrics (like Denim).
DO NOT use for Leather or other unwoven fabrics.

Ball Point needles are rounded on the end, so as not to tear the project. This makes them ideal for Knit and other easily unraveled or damaged fabrics.
DO NOT use for Leather or Denim

Leather needles are not only sharp, they're also bladed. This allows them to slice through unwoven fabrics (like Leather or Vinyl).
DO NOT use for Regular or Knit fabrics

Now you should be ready to pick out the perfect needle for your next project.

Having trouble threading your needle? Check out last month's post The Eyes Have It and our YouTube video on Sewing Needle Basics.

Needles. We know they're important for any sewing project, but why is it so hard to thread them?

Needles vary in three specific ways-- Eyes, Points, and Size (or "Weight"). Each of these factor into what the needle is best used for. In regard to threading, we'll be talking about Eyes.

The Eye of a needle is the hole where the thread goes through. On machine sewing needles, the Eye is located at the point, while hand sewing needles have it at the opposite end (this is one of the numerous reasons why NOT to interchange the two).

Let's look at some different types of Eyes:

As you can see, the Eyes of each needle are different sizes.
The smaller the Eye, the harder to thread. Makes sense, right?

So why all the different options?
Singer needles come in various sizes ranging from the 8 (small) to the 18 (large). As the needle gets bigger, so does the Eye. As you can see from the picture, the Size 18 needle's Eye is wider than the Size 8's shaft.
Small needles are for delicate projects where you don't want to leave holes in the fabric.

What if the Size 18 Eye is still too small?
Here are two options:

1. Top Stitch Needles. Top Stitch Eyes are long and wide and can be purchased in Size 14 (which is the Standard needle size)

2. Self Threading Needles. Made especially for those of us who can't slip that thread through the Eye, Self Threaders have a slot on one side which allows the thread to slide on in--no poking required. They also come in Size 14.

Hope understanding Eyes helps you thread a little easier.
For more information on needles, check out our YouTube tutorial:

Ever had one of those days where your bobbin is keeping more thread than it can use? It bunches in the bobbin case, it bunches on the seam, it's enough to make a person scream!
This problem has many names: tangling, nesting, clotting, boogering-up....
Whatever you call it, it can turn a good sewing day into a nightmare.

It doesn't have to be this way! Here's what's going on, and how to fix it:

Thankfully, there's an easy way to make sure the thread is in the right position before you start sewing.
Just give that upper thread a simple little tug to make sure it's safely in the tension disks.

Some Upper Tensions are hidden in the machine, so you won't be able to see the tension disks, but gentle tugging will still work.

What does your Upper Tension control look like? Here are some examples:

Family Promise is a parachurch ministry that helps homeless families regain their dignity and independence.
Unlike many homeless shelters, families are given private living quarters during their stay and receive financial training and assistance in applying for employment.
Most "graduate" (achieve independence) from the program in six weeks.

Shenandoah Sew and Vac wants to help give homeless families the light of hope.
That's why we're offering a special deal this December:
Bring in any lamp for repair with Family Promise Gift Certificate and get $5.00 off Labor (printable Certificate available at bottom of page).
For every Certificate used, Shenandoah Sew and Vac will donate $5.00 to Family Promise of Shenandoah County, a new affiliate which will serve Shenandoah County starting in 2016.

Here's How It Works:

Here's a video explaining the ministry.           "IHN" is Family Promise's former title.