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Just Zigzaging Along

7/30/2016

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This week I was asked what the best zigzag sewing machine was.

As with most questions, it's not as easy as just spouting out an answer, so here are some guidelines on choosing the best Zigzag machine for you.

Zigzag machines (as opposed to straight stitch machines) come in three styles.
We'll name these categories by their bobbin designations:  Class 15,  Class 15 Front Load, and Drop-In.

Class 15
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Originally, most zigzag sewing machines were in the Class 15 style.

The Class 15 bobbin case is located at the end of the sewing machine.
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This style functions very well, due to the the timing being pinned (rather than screwed) in place.
In 27 years I have never had to reset the timing on a Class 15 machine.
In addition, the entire bobbin case moves with the needle as it zigzags, making sure each stitch is consistent.
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The difficulty with this style, however, is removing and replacing the bobbin through the small opening.
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Class 15 Front Load
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To fix this problem, Class 15 Front Load machines were created.
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Using a snap-in bobbin case at the front of the machine, is easier to load.
Unlike the Class 15, the bobbin case is static, meaning that the stitch is more likely to lose timing.
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Drop-In
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Drop-In sewing machines are the most commonly made today.

Quick and easy to load, the bobbin is placed horizontal in the bobbin case.
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Just like Class 15 Front Loads however, the bobbin case remains static during zigzaging.
This may result in skipped stitches where only one side  --Left or Right -- is actually sewn.
The final decision comes down to how much effort you want to spend replacing the bobbin:
  • Class 15s are the most precise, stitch-wise, but are also the most difficult to load.
  • Class 15 Front Loads and Drop-Ins easier to load, but will also occasionally lose timing during a project.
Have any feedback or questions?  Please leave a comment, we'd love to hear from you!
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Get the Point

5/4/2016

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So you've decided what type of needle eye you want. That covers your thread choice, but how about the fabric?

The Point of a needle is very important. This is what pushes--or pierces--the thread through the fabric. Choose the wrong one and you might just ruin your sewing project.

Here's a little run down of needle Points:
Universal
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Universal needles are made for average projects. The Point is... average. Not too sharp, not too blunt.

Jeans/Denim
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 Denim needles have sharper Points in order to pierce through dense and tightly woven fabrics (like Denim).
DO NOT use for Leather or other unwoven fabrics.
Ball Point/Jersey
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Ball Point needles are rounded on the end, so as not to tear the project. This makes them ideal for Knit and other easily unraveled or damaged fabrics.
DO NOT use for Leather or Denim
Leather
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Leather needles are not only sharp, they're also bladed. This allows them to slice through unwoven fabrics (like Leather or Vinyl).
DO NOT use for Regular or Knit fabrics
Now you should be ready to pick out the perfect needle for your next project.

Having trouble threading your needle? Check out last month's post The Eyes Have It and our YouTube video on Sewing Needle Basics.
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The Eyes Have It

3/31/2016

4 Comments

 
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Needles. We know they're important for any sewing project, but why is it so hard to thread them?

Needles vary in three specific ways-- Eyes, Points, and Size (or "Weight"). Each of these factor into what the needle is best used for. In regard to threading, we'll be talking about Eyes.

The Eye of a needle is the hole where the thread goes through. On machine sewing needles, the Eye is located at the point, while hand sewing needles have it at the opposite end (this is one of the numerous reasons why NOT to interchange the two).
Let's look at some different types of Eyes:
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As you can see, the Eyes of each needle are different sizes.
The smaller the Eye, the harder to thread. Makes sense, right?

So why all the different options?
Singer needles come in various sizes ranging from the 8 (small) to the 18 (large). As the needle gets bigger, so does the Eye. As you can see from the picture, the Size 18 needle's Eye is wider than the Size 8's shaft.
Small needles are for delicate projects where you don't want to leave holes in the fabric.

What if the Size 18 Eye is still too small?
Here are two options:

1. Top Stitch Needles. Top Stitch Eyes are long and wide and can be purchased in Size 14 (which is the Standard needle size)
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2. Self Threading Needles. Made especially for those of us who can't slip that thread through the Eye, Self Threaders have a slot on one side which allows the thread to slide on in--no poking required. They also come in Size 14.
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Hope understanding Eyes helps you thread a little easier.
For more information on needles, check out our YouTube tutorial:
Sewing Machine Needle Basics
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4 Comments

Nesting Bobbins

3/2/2016

1 Comment

 
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Ever had one of those days where your bobbin is keeping more thread than it can use? It bunches in the bobbin case, it bunches on the seam, it's enough to make a person scream!
This problem has many names: tangling, nesting, clotting, boogering-up....
Whatever you call it, it can turn a good sewing day into a nightmare.

It doesn't have to be this way! Here's what's going on, and how to fix it:
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Much like the Three Stitch Problem, Nesting is the symptom of an upper-thread problem.

This may sound silly, since all the trouble's in the bobbin case, but it's all about the Upper Tension.
The Upper Tension is controlled by a dial.
When threading the machine, the upper thread loops around the tension control before heading up to the Take-Up Finger.

If you loop around the Upper Tension while the presser foot is up, the thread slides nicely between the tension disks as intended.
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HOWEVER, if the presser foot is down during this process, the thread does not fully enter the tension disks.
This means the tension will have no control over the thread during sewing and the bobbin will catch up the extra (or "Nest").
Thankfully, there's an easy way to make sure the thread is in the right position before you start sewing.
Just give that upper thread a simple little tug to make sure it's safely in the tension disks.

Some Upper Tensions are hidden in the machine, so you won't be able to see the tension disks, but gentle tugging will still work.
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What does your Upper Tension control look like? Here are some examples:
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The Three Stitch Problem

2/2/2016

1 Comment

 
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You get three stitches into a sewing project and suddenly the thread breaks!
Never fear, the culprit is probably just your Take-Up Finger.

Let's break this down:

When a sewing machine is threaded, it is easy to forget the Take-Up Finger.

The Take-Up Finger is a lever that lifts and lowers the thread with each stitch.

Depending on your machine, the Take-Up Finger will be in the front or side above the tension control.
Check out some examples at the end of the article.

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Accidentally skipping the Take-Up Finger in threading leads to the Three Stitch Problem.

The first stitch or two may look fine, but something happens by stitch three...


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Why does this happen?
The Take-Up Finger is needed to pull the upper thread around the bobbin and back to the surface. Without it, the thread is taut and is unable to give.


Next time the Three Stitch Problem turns up, take a look at your Take-Up Finger. Rethreading the machine may save you a lot of sewing anguish.

What does your Take-Up Finger look like? Here are a few different examples
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5 Sewing Groups for Local Crafters

9/28/2015

5 Comments

 
The pdf. document is now expanded to 6 groups. We hope to do a follow up post with more information soon.
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Interested in sewing, quilting, and appliqué but bored doing it alone?

Here are five local sewing groups to brighten you social life.


1.TOVA (Top Of Virginia Quilt Guild)
    Where: Grace Methodist Church, Middletown, VA
    When: 1st Thursday of the month, 1pm-3pm
    Website: N/A
    Contact: tovaquiltguild@hotmail.com


2. Skyline Quilters’ Guild
    Where: Strasburg Community Center; Strasburg, VA
    When: 1st Thursday of the month, 7pm
    Website: www.facebook.com/skylinequilters
    Contact: Donna Robertson (540) 636-6331


3. Dorcas (Hand Quilting on a Quilting Frame)
    Where: United Methodist Church, Woodstock, VA
    When: Every Monday 9am-11am
    Website: N/A
    Contact: Janet Stultz, (540) 459-2558


4. The Shenandoah Valley Appliqué Society
    Where: Shenandoah County Library, Edinburg, VA
    When: 3rd Tuesday of the month, 1pm-4pm
    Website: www.svqg.org/?page_id=142
    Contact: Jan Hood (540) 459-8118



5. SVQG (Shenandoah Valley Quilters' Guild)
    Where: Sunnyside Retirement Community: Sunnyside Room, Harrisonburg, Va
    When: 3rd Saturday of the month*, 9:30am
    Website: www.svqg.org
    Contact: Mary Carlton qltnfsh@shentel.net

*Meets on the 2nd Saturday in December



If you know of other local crafting groups, send us a message! We'd love to let people know what's out there.


5_sewing_groups_for_local_crafters-_expanded.pdf
File Size: 58 kb
File Type: pdf
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    Shenandoah Sew and Vac is a small retail and repair business located in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.

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